Twenty-six roaches crawled around a restaurant kitchen, including under a food prep table ... “with toilet paper in dry storage hallway behind kitchen.” “Accumulation of black/green mold-like ...

I ate a lot of things that surprised me when I lived in Hong Kong in my mid 20s, often from carts hidden from street view in back alleys or larger street-side stalls known as dai pai dong.

Weed, obviously. But also a ton of innovation, some surprising ingredients, a dose of hucksterism—and a tradition on the verge of being extinguished.

Crammed into tight quarters, they sit elbow to elbow at card tables and talk over one another ... that they have to bring their own toilet paper and paper towels. To help out undermanned cleaning ...